When autumn arrives in northern Italy, the valleys between Piedmont and Switzerland transform into a living painting: fiery reds, warm oranges, and golden yellows stretching across the mountains. 

And there’s no better way to admire this spectacle than aboard the Vigezzina–Centovalli Railway, affectionately known as the “Foliage Train.” Jump on board, fictionally, with us!

The Vigezzina–Centovalli line connects Domodossola (Italy) to Locarno (Switzerland), running through 52 kilometers (about 32 miles) of breathtaking mountain scenery. The train journey takes around two hours, crossing 83 bridges and 31 tunnels, offering passengers uninterrupted views of forests, waterfalls, deep gorges, and picturesque alpine villages.

The railway was inaugurated in 1923, making it over a century old - a remarkable feat of engineering at the time, and still one of Europe’s most scenic train routes today. It’s operated jointly by SSIF (Società Subalpina Imprese Ferroviarie) in Italy and FART (Ferrovie Autolinee Regionali Ticinesi) in Switzerland.

Each October and early November, the Valle Vigezzo and Centovalli valleys explode with color. The “Foliage Train” nickname was born from this natural phenomenon, as the railway company began promoting seasonal journeys specifically to admire autumn colors.

During this period, the Foliage Train ticket includes special round-trip fares, free stops in selected villages, and sometimes packages that include tastings of local products - from mountain cheeses to chestnut sweets. These promotions are real and usually run from early October to mid-November, depending on weather and leaf color timing.

Your autumn adventure starts in Domodossola, a charming alpine town nestled at the foot of the Ossola Valley in Piedmont. Once a bustling stop along medieval trade routes, today it feels like stepping into a quiet storybook scene. The Piazza del Mercato - with its graceful stone arcades, Renaissance façades, and lively cafés - is the perfect spot for a morning cappuccino as you watch locals prepare for their day. Don’t rush this part: the crisp mountain air, the scent of roasted coffee, and the soft chatter from the market stalls set the perfect tone for the journey ahead.

As the train winds deeper into the valley, you’ll arrive in Santa Maria Maggiore, often called the “cultural soul” of Valle Vigezzo. This enchanting village has long attracted artists and travelers with its creative spirit. You can visit the delightful Chimney Sweep Museum (Museo dello Spazzacamino) - a touching tribute to the region’s chimney sweeps who once worked across Europe - or step inside the Scuola di Belle Arti Rossetti Valentini, an elegant 19th-century art academy that still nurtures young talents.

In autumn, the surrounding woods ignite in fiery reds and golds, turning the valley into a natural art gallery that rivals any canvas. Strolling through its cobblestone streets, you’ll feel as if you’ve stepped straight into a painting brushed by the season itself.

The train glides across the border and suddenly, the landscape shifts: welcome to Intragna, the “gateway” to the Centovalli. The view from the 80-meter-high railway bridge, the tallest in Ticino, will quite literally take your breath away, especially as the forest below glows in shades of copper and honey.

Once off the train, wander the village’s maze of narrow stone alleys, passing rustic houses that seem to cling to the mountainside. Don’t miss the bell tower of San Gottardo, the highest in the canton, offering a panoramic view of the valleys and vineyards that roll gently into Switzerland.

The best time to ride the Foliage Train is from early October to mid-November, though the exact peak varies each year depending on temperatures and rainfall. Tickets can be purchased directly from the official Vigezzina–Centovalli website, at the stations in Domodossola or Locarno, or through Italian rail offices. Seats are limited during the foliage season, so early booking is recommended. Even better, trust local Italian travel companies such as Play Italy to book everything for you, just as you imagined!

Whether you’re a photographer, a nature lover, or just someone looking for a peaceful autumn escape, this journey between Italy and Switzerland will feel like traveling through a postcard.

P.S. Don’t miss other scenic routes by train, such as the Bernina Express - taking you to St. Moritz 😉

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